Watch: Work Capacity

When it comes to performing at a high level for a long day or days on end, a climber needs to develop work capacity. Work capacity is exactly what it seems; the ability to execute high levels of effort over time.

When we talk about work capacity for climbers, we are talking about being able to consistently climb / work at a given level all day long or during multi-day efforts. When it comes to your limit-level routes, 3 tries might seem like a lot. Work capacity training seeks to change that.

The key to building work capacity is deceptively simple: do more total work. In this video Steve lays out a simple method to add more general work capacity and then to convert it to climbing specific capacity.

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