Recovery

Pick Your Poison: Cold or Heat Therapy for Recovery

Tags: , , , , ,

By Taylor Carr, MS, ISSN-SNS, PN1   “The Iceman” Wim Hof, a Dutchman famed for swimming in icy waters, is said to be the father of ice bath recovery. The U.S. Special Operations Forces also use cold therapy as a form of “high-stress training.” This training, however, involves wildly cold water that trained individuals can…

Watch: Integrated Strength

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Everything about training for climbing is complicated. It is an exercise in compromise – focus on power and you lose endurance, too much time getting your fingers strong, and your redpoint grade drops. Over the years, there have been many creative solutions proposed to solve this problem. Many programs are more or less stolen from…

Watch: Goal Setting Part 2

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

The majority of climbers have goals, but not many have a framework that will lay out a path to succeed at ambitious, long-term objectives – even though almost all of us have them! In this video Alex discusses how to structure your goal setting so you have have a clear pathway to your short term,…

Watch: Goal Setting Part 1

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

The majority of climbers have goals, but not many have a framework that will lay out a path to succeed at ambitious, long-term objectives – even though almost all of us have them! In this video Alex discusses how to structure your goal setting so you have have a clear pathway to your short term,…

Watch: Foundational Mental Skills Part 2

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Training of mental skills is often overlooked by climbers but they are incredibly important to unlock an athletes full potential, along with cultivating a healthy relationship with your climbing. In this video Alex discusses the final two principles of Foundational Mental Skills: Productive Thinking and Self Confidence. Click here to watch Part 1. Want To…

Watch: Foundational Mental Skills Part 1

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Training of mental skills is often overlooked by climbers but they are incredibly important to unlock an athletes full potential, along with cultivating a healthy relationship with your climbing. In this video Alex discusses the first two principles of Foundational Mental Skills: Motivation + Drive and Self Awareness. Part 2 will address Productive Thinking and…

Resting on Routes

Tags: , , , ,

By Chrissy Vadovszki As a climber transitions into more challenging sport or trad climbs, the need for better habits and tactics around optimal resting on routes arises. These thoughts and ideas can be applied to longer boulders (not to exclude the pebble wrestlers among us), as well as onsighting or flashing climbs. However, we will…

Active Recovery

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Sleep and nutrition play the biggest roles in recovering from training or hard climbing, but there are other variables you can leverage to recover more efficiently on a short or long term basis. In this video Steve discusses tools for recovery in between redpoint efforts, on your rest days, and on a larger scale within…

TRAIN: Assessing Readiness to Train

Tags: , , , ,

How do you know if you’re ready for a hard session? Feel good? No soreness? It might not be that simple.

Tactical Periodization

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel The first time I worked out, I was amazed at how hard repeating a specific move over and over again could feel. I had been in PE class and had played around with other kids my whole life, but when I joined the football team in fifth grade was the first time…

Should I Train Today?

Tags: , , , ,

by Steve Bechtel Well, the obvious answer is, “yes,” but that would make a short article. Let’s go deeper.  You love climbing and you desperately want to do it better. Your tendency is to go hard every session because somehow you think that you could give just a little more and something magical will happen…

In-Depth: Overreaching and Overtraining

Tags: , ,

Site Search

Categories