Intervals
“Tolerance” Training
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, Intervals, Linked Problems, Power Endurance, Rhythm Intervals, Strength Endurance
By Steve Bechtel You’re strong, no doubt. You’re way stronger in the gym than most of the guys you climb with at the crag, but they routinely burn you off out there. There’s gotta be something they have figured out that you haven’t. What they have that you don’t is tolerance. “Tolerance” is the ability…
The Todd Skinner Workout
Tags: Conditioning, Endurance, Fatigue, Finger Strength, Intervals, Power Endurance, Todd Skinner
By Steve Bechtel Once upon a time, there were no climbing gyms. There were good climbers, among them my friend Todd Skinner, who did a fair amount of hard training off the rock. During the late 1980s, Todd and some friends developed a freestanding “box” of slats with several different sizes of wooden edges attached…
Understanding the Lactic Energy System
Tags: Conditioning, Endurance, Fatigue, Intervals, Power Endurance, Quality Training
by Steve Bechtel If you’ve ever climbed to the top of a strenuous route, you’ve felt the burn. If you’ve ever trained super-hard, you’ve felt the debilitating soreness the day after the session. Undoubtedly, you’ve also read or been told that one or both of these is due to lactic acid buildup in your muscles….
Extensive Endurance On Home Wall?
Tags: ARC, Extensive Endurance, home wall training, Intervals
Currently the only means of plastic tugging I have is my 6 foot wide 45 degree home wall. I’m curious as to how you’d recommend approaching training extensive endurance with only a steep woody and some hanging implements. I’ve got jugs to rup my greasy fingers on but at the angle I’m working with its…
Route Climbing Strength-Endurance 1
Tags: Hangboard, Intervals, Power Endurance, Redpointing
This is a 6-week plan for climbers looking to maximize Strength-Endurance for short crux sequences and long boulder problems. There are no specific days assigned to these workouts, nor rest days specified. Just plan on doing the workouts in the order written, and rest as necessary. Week 1- For week 1, you want to…