Extensive Endurance
Third Gear: The Aerobic Energy System
Tags: 4x4s, aerobic endurance, ARC, Endurance, energy systems, Extensive Endurance, short workouts
by Steve Bechtel A few years back, I was asked during an interview how important running is to climbing performance. Somewhat reactively, I said, “Running is as important for climbing as climbing is for running.” Over the years, I’ve received more than a fair number of messages and emails about this statement. Although there…
Endurance 3.0
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance, Intervals, Power Endurance, Strength Endurance
by Steve Bechtel Of all the facets of training for climbing, I think training for endurance is the most controversial and misunderstood. Most of us agree that a hangboard is the best way to build finger strength and that bouldering on an indoor wall is a good way to build power, but what about endurance?…
Extensive Endurance On Home Wall?
Tags: ARC, Extensive Endurance, home wall training, Intervals
Currently the only means of plastic tugging I have is my 6 foot wide 45 degree home wall. I’m curious as to how you’d recommend approaching training extensive endurance with only a steep woody and some hanging implements. I’ve got jugs to rup my greasy fingers on but at the angle I’m working with its…
Route Climbing Endurance 1
Tags: Circuits, Extensive Endurance, Route Climbing, Stamina, Training, Training Plans
The route climbing endurance plans are built around developing sustained power outputs for long duration. These marry the needs of most climbers, and neither focus on strength-endurance nor on the low-end and recovery-heavy training of pure endurance climbing. This program features maintenance of strength through weekly bouldering and maintenance-level finger strength training. The bulk of…
414 Redpoint Training Plan
Tags: Bouldering, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance, Route Climbing, Training Plans
I have written extensively in articles about the limitations of normal periodized climbing training plans, as well as the clear limits of “just going climbing.” Somewhere in the magic space between lies the Shangri-La of climbing training programs. I can’t say that I have found it, but as we continue the discussion and experimentation, we…