Campus Board
Maybe We’re Approaching Power Wrong
Tags: Bouldering, Campus Board, Power, Steve Bechtel, Strength
By Steve Bechtel It might be semantics, but it might also be a trap. When we throw around the terms we use in training for climbing, the word “power” gets used a lot. The problem is that although power is a performance metric, we struggle to build training that directly addresses it. Thus, when we…
Training Contact Strength
Tags: Campus Board, Contact Strength, Finger Strength, Hangboard, Rate of Force Production, SAID, Strength, Training
By Steve Bechtel Contact Strength is a term unique to climbing. It refers to one’s ability to grasp a hold with maximum strength “on contact.” The ability for different climbers to do this varies widely, and many climbers have to “ramp” their strength a bit each time they grab a new hold. Although we see…
Introduction to Training for Bouldering
Tags: Bouldering, Campus Board, Circuits, Explosiveness, Hangboard, Power, System Board, Weight Training
By Steve Bechtel Bouldering is exactly the same as rock climbing, except that it’s way harder. In an attempt to do this way harder sport, we often employ rock climbing training programs, yet they don’t quite work. This article is intended to highlight these differences, provide an introduction to bouldering training, and suggest an alternative…
Strength and Power Sessions for Bouldering
Tags: Bouldering, Campus Board, Circuits, CNS, Hangboard, Movement Preparation, Power, System Board, Weight Training
By Steve Bechtel Training for bouldering is a little bit different than just bouldering. I submit that just bouldering itself is great for getting good at the sport, just as going running is a good way to get ready for a 5k. As you know, though, top runners don’t “just run.” In order to develop…