Advanced Training

The Full Tilt Bouldering Plan

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I wrote the Full Tilt Redpoint Plan for myself a decade ago. I had little kids, was super busy at the gym, and wanted to get the most out of my sport climbing with the limited time I had. Since then, we’ve programmed dozens of variations to this plan for climbers seeking all kinds of…

In-Season Fitness – Logical Progression 1

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The Logical Progression plans are built to function either as stand-alone training with no additional climbing days, or as in-season programs done between days at the crag. This program features lower-volume sessions and is specifically aimed at keeping power and strength topped out for bouldering or crux-based route climbing. This is not an endurance-heavy program,…

Charlie Manganiello Kettlebell Rack Hold b&w, photo by Mei Ratz

Concentrated Loading

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by Steve Bechtel It doesn’t really matter what I write. It seems that within two hours of putting an article up, I get a “yeah, but…” email explaining how whatever I wrote just won’t work in x program and could I please explain how one might do y… Clearly, most of us have all the…

Bouldering Toe Hook

Training Programs for Bouldering – Advanced

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By Steve Bechtel I was reluctant to release this training plan, and here’s why: I don’t think more than a handful of the climbers that will read this plan really need this plan. I have released training plans for novices and intermediate level climbers and I believe these plans are better plans for almost every…

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